If like me, you own a twin headlight Fireblade with a 16" front wheel, you'll soon realise that
your tyre selection is constantly decreasing. Saying that i've just put a set of
Dunlop Qualifier II's ( 2009 ) on and they're great !
This year (2010) I thought i'd get round to starting the process of converting my bike.
I've looked at it and decided it splits into 2 projects.
Here's what i've done......
Project 1 :
Converting the mechanical speedo to electrical.
On the good old auction website, source the following :
Front sprocket cover with the hole for sprocket drive - about £15
Speedo sensor to fit the above - about £25
Speedo or complete set of clocks off of a slightly later blade, my mint set were £60.
( long rectangle dash lights, oil, high beam etc )
How to ? with aid of Haynes Manual
1 - Fit the front sprocket cover, if it comes with 2 metal spacers sticking out
of the holes, pull them out and either a) cut the shorter end off or
b) push them in from the front. They're needed to make sure the case locates.
2 - Make sure the speedo drive locates properly. I found I don't need the metal
spacer ( c shaped ) that goes with the old cover anymore. I also found putting
2 thin washers between the speedo drive and the case ensures it's not tight
on the sprocket bolt.
3 - Make up a 3 wire loom, a good 2m.
Pink = signal to speedo,
Black = +12 ( fuse box, Horn, Tail, Meter, 10amp ),
Green = earth.
( source - Haynes Manual )
4 - When I took my old clocks off I thought everything was going well....
it turns out Mr Honda decided to change the sex of the cluster
connecting blocks ! Mine are female on the clocks, new ones
are male ! I did sit for a while and contemplated butchering all the wires,
the instrument bulbs are different too !
I spoke to mechanic mate and he said why not make up a swapover
lead, luckily the shop where he works has a box of gash wiring looms.
It makes sense to spend a little time on it incase it needs swapping back or
in need another set of clocks.
On the 9pin's, the wiring is identical ( old bike, new bike ).
The 6pin, the 3pins in a row connect to old 3 pin,
the odd pin is the speedo signal, hook that to pink.
You need :
2 x female 9pin plugs ( 3x3pins ) for the main loom
1 x female 6pin plug ( 2x3pins )
1 x female 3 pin plugs ( 1 x 3pins ) for old blade wiring
( these are readily available from autostar* on ebay, less than £2 each )
After a few hours in the garage, they're on and working great !
The only other thing I had to do was fudge the mounting holes,
I ended up making a small bracket - Job done.
Project 2 :
According to the EBC Fitment Guide, these wheels should go
with my original discs MD1014 on a 1993.
|MD1014X Disc||CBR600 FX/FY 99-00||296|
|MD1014XC Disc||VFR800 FiW/FiX 98-99|
|VFR800 FiY/Fi1-5 00-05|
|CBR900 RRN/P 92-93|
These discs are dished inwards towards the wheel hub.
Suspected other wheels.
|MD1003X Disc||CBR400 NC23||296|
|MD1003XC Disc||CBR400 NC30|
These discs are possibly flat. So the wheel may work with original discs... unconfirmed.
Update : 24th Aug 2010
Finally found, at a reasonalbe price, a VFR800 2000 front wheel with tyre - £60,
waiting for it to be delivered, my discs should go straight on no probs.
I already have a 17" Dunlop Qualifier II to go on, hopefully recoup some
money by selling the tyre that the wheel comes with.
A mate of mine who works at a bike shop has had other blade owners come in
saying the conversion is quite involved, blackbird calipers etc - i hope to prove this wrong !
Another couple of bits i potentially need are some spindle spacers, due to needing to replace
the long redundant speedo drive - new clocks works with out a problem.
So i'm looking to purchase ( auction ) some slightly newer blade spacers, i can
get these modified ( thru a mate ), make them shorter if necessary.
Update : 1st Sept 2010
Got my bargain VFR800 wheel, a pair of RRV spacers. With the new spacers, the
spacing is perfect. I put the wheel in and it all looked good ! until i put my discs on..
put the wheel back in and couldn't get the calipers back on, it appears the hub
on the VFR wheel is about 4mm to 4.5mm wider on each side for the disc mounting.
I now have to find a company who can machine the wheel for me ..... watch this space.
Update : 14th Nov 2010
I found a man who could do it ! my good mate Jon at www.m-j-engineering.com,
they recently had delivery of a new CNC milling machine, when i heard this
my hopes were raised. I dropped my wheel off on wed 10th and it was done
the same day :) they had to make a specific jig for my wheel, once that was
done, they took about 4.5mm off of each side of the hub. One of my concerns was
if there was going to be enough thread left for the disc bolts - there was plenty.
I slotted the wheel & discs in, and low it was done !
I tested it up the road yesterday and she's great ! the wheel bearings have a
bit of a grumble, but i'll put new bearings in for next season.
Update : 2nd Feb 2011
Wheel has been painted, new bearings, discs on and in - just waiting for new season now !
I believe the conversion is worth doing, if like me you have a bullet proof bike, then it's
worth the effort, with help round the corner in Cambridgeshire it should be straight forward.
My my new tyres will be another set of Dunlop QII's with no hesitation.
Once again many thanks to www.wheel-fit.co.uk for use of their workshop
and www.m-j-engineering.com for their expertise, they are expanding their
library of wheel jigs as jobs come in.
Job done !
Update : April 2011
Been out on a couple of rides so far, bike turns in very nicely, front end lifts alot easier
and i've been tweeking the front suspension now the height is slightly higher.
I'm very pleased with the outcome.